August 27th, 2010
Fashion Industry Struggles Over Pricing
Posted: Monday, August 23, 2010
Source: WWD
The article asks how long can manufacturers and retailers hold off raising prices? Instead, we’re of the belief that retailers will need to lower their merchandise margin expectations in today’s deflationary/promotional environment.
Fears Grow Over Pakistan Textiles
Posted: Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Source: WWD
Check out the comment from JCP’s VP of Strategic Sourcing. She suggests that Pakistan’s flooding woes have forced companies to “use finer yarn counts, which are more expensive, and that makes you reconsider your country mix where you produce your fabric as well.”
Costco Targets Mall Space to Expand Its Reach
Posted: Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Source: wsj.com
We’re curious how profitable these traditional mall locations are versus COST’s standard suburban stand-alone venue?
Holiday Outlook Dims as Economy Struggles
Posted: Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Source: WWD
It’s always interesting to hear analysts and CEO’s providing bullish commentary re: future sales trends. In this article, several retailers and analysts are expecting +2% to +4% sales gains this Holiday season. SKS CEO Stephen Sadove believes that his company will report +MSD comps in the Holiday season. Our crystal ball is much more bearish. Lower margins will negatively impact the top-line and the sector will be lucky to report flattish sales versus LY.
Luring Shoppers to Stores
Marketers Try Interactive Mirrors, Discounts via Scanners
Posted: Thursday, August 26, 2010
Source: wsj.com
While we’re entering a new age of retailing, it’s worth remembering that these new strategic initiatives don’t come cheap and will limit opportunities for profitability improvement.
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August 23rd, 2010
Men’s Buyers See 10 to 15 Percent Price Hikes
Posted: Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Source: WWD
The headline of the article says it all. But, notice the comment from a smallish retailer that suggests a bigger problem today is late deliveries that are forcing him to plan further in advance to avoid air shipment (a much bigger impact than higher cotton prices).
In His Own Words: Dov Charney
Posted: Thursday, August 19, 2010
Source: WWD
Atypically thoughtful commentary from Mr. Charney.
South Africa Halts Exports of Raw Wool to China
Posted: Thursday, August 19, 2010
Source: WWD
Do you know what Rift Valley Fever is? Retailers around the world are becoming familiar with the recent outbreak of this disease in South Africa.
Apparel Retailers Check Out Prices
Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010
Source: WSJ
SSI CEO is skeptical that the consumer will stomach higher pricing.
Profiling the Value Retailers
Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010
Source: WWD
Great resource for someone that wants to better understand the global value chains.
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August 16th, 2010
Tony Retailers Hope Outlets Fuel Sales
Posted: Monday, August 09, 2010
Source: WSJ
Outlets continue to attract more retailers to the venue.
Penney Weaves New Fast-Fashion Line
Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Source: WSJ
JCP management loves to talk about how fashionable they’ve become. Yet, every month this year they disclose in their sales recording how strong the men’s apparel and shoe businesses are performing versus LY.
Celebrity, Proprietary Brands Squeeze Independent Labels
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010
Source: WWD
Department stores have clearly gotten the message that their product needs to be differentiated versus their peers.
Sephora Bets Its Bottom Dollar on Denim
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010
Source: WWD
Could they have waited any longer to jump into the premium denim biz? Good grief. This would have been a great idea 2-3 years ago.
Targeting Younger Buyers, Liz Claiborne Hits Snag
Posted: Monday August 16, 2010
Source: WSJ
Liz Claiborne partners with JCP. Two peas in a pod.
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Don’t Believe the Hype! Complicit Analysts Allowing ANF to Take a Victory Lap
Only in America! Where else can you report a +5% comp store sales result in Q2 2010 versus declines of -30% in Q2 2009, -4% in Q2 2008, and -2% in Q2 2007 and have sell-side analysts congratulating you on a great quarter?
The fact is that Mr. Jefferies has run ANF into the ground over the past 5 years. He’s analogous to a head football coach today with a wishbone offense in an age when spread offenses are all the rage. He did a remarkable job 10-15 years ago building a chain that siphoned sales away from the 800-lb gorilla, The Gap (GPS – $18.02). He should be commended for providing a blueprint for how others could build aspirational brands with a focus on “affordable luxury” before anyone had even coined the term.
But, Mr. Jefferies running ANF today is like giving the keys of the car to your 85-year-old grandpa… you just don’t do it. He’s the wrong person to run ANF at a time when Forever 21 has permanently changed the rules of the game.
Was it a great quarter? You be the judge:
Look at the chart below to see how dramatic the company’s GPM% has fallen over the past 2+ years at a time when others are at record levels.
So, why do the sell-side analysts not hold Mr. Jefferies accountable and ask more probing questions on the quarterly conference call? While Mr. Jefferies and most CEOs have not fully grasped this notion, the analysts NEED Mr. Jefferies. The analysts that follow the company need Mr. Jefferies and the company to provide them ‘access’ so that they can invite buy-side clients to management meetings and road shows. That’s how the sell-side analysts implicitly get paid, not through the ‘regurgitative’ nature of their research that adds no value, but via their ability to get buy-side investors in front of management teams.
That’s why investors are stuck with a process that allows management teams such as ANF to set the agenda for the analysts that follow the company and GET AWAY WITH IT! Think about it. ANF management can deliver a +5% comp in Q2 2010 and convince the sell-side analysts that they’re doing well, all while ignoring the historical context of the company’s performance.
It’s a never ending cycle. Analysts need access to the company’s management to implicitly get paid by the buy-side community (via commissions). Company management teams need the analysts to ignore historical performance and to believe management’s ‘spin’ despite objective analysis that suggests otherwise.
So, we’re left with Mr. Jefferies patting himself on the back and analysts congratulating him on yesterday’s conference call.
The fact is that grandpa (Mr. Jefferies) is driving the car and he’s already mowed down a few pedestrians. He’s a CEO of a fashionable teen retailer that continues to have a tough time adjusting to today’s environment that has dramatically changed with the recent success of Forever 21. So, instead of the company’s board of directors paying Mr. Jefferies $4 million to not fly the corporate jet, someone on the Board needs to be brave enough to take the keys away from Mr. Jefferies and find a visionary merchant to take ANF to the next level.
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