Weekly Top 5 – Five Articles Worth Reading

Fashion Industry Struggles Over Pricing
Posted: Monday, August 23, 2010
Source: WWD
The article asks how long can manufacturers and retailers hold off raising prices?  Instead, we’re of the belief that retailers will need to lower their merchandise margin expectations in today’s deflationary/promotional environment.

Fears Grow Over Pakistan Textiles
Posted: Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Source: WWD
Check out the comment from JCP’s VP of Strategic Sourcing.  She suggests that Pakistan’s flooding woes have forced companies to “use finer yarn counts, which are more expensive, and that makes you reconsider your country mix where you produce your fabric as well.”

Costco Targets Mall Space to Expand Its Reach
Posted: Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Source: wsj.com
We’re curious how profitable these traditional mall locations are versus COST’s standard suburban stand-alone venue? 

Holiday Outlook Dims as Economy Struggles
Posted: Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Source: WWD
It’s always interesting to hear analysts and CEO’s providing bullish commentary re: future sales trends.  In this article, several retailers and analysts are expecting +2% to +4% sales gains this Holiday season.  SKS CEO Stephen Sadove believes that his company will report +MSD comps in the Holiday season.  Our crystal ball is much more bearish.  Lower margins will negatively impact the top-line and the sector will be lucky to report flattish sales versus LY.

Luring Shoppers to Stores
Marketers Try Interactive Mirrors, Discounts via Scanners
Posted: Thursday, August 26, 2010
Source: wsj.com
While we’re entering a new age of retailing, it’s worth remembering that these new strategic initiatives don’t come cheap and will limit opportunities for profitability improvement.

Weekly Top 5 – Five Articles Worth Reading

Men’s Buyers See 10 to 15 Percent Price Hikes
Posted: Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Source: WWD
The headline of the article says it all.  But, notice the comment from a smallish retailer that suggests a bigger problem today is late deliveries that are forcing him to plan further in advance to avoid air shipment (a much bigger impact than higher cotton prices).

In His Own Words: Dov Charney
Posted: Thursday, August 19, 2010
Source: WWD
Atypically thoughtful commentary from Mr. Charney.

South Africa Halts Exports of Raw Wool to China
Posted: Thursday, August 19, 2010
Source: WWD
Do you know what Rift Valley Fever is?  Retailers around the world are becoming familiar with the recent outbreak of this disease in South Africa.

Apparel Retailers Check Out Prices
Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010
Source: WSJ
SSI CEO is skeptical that the consumer will stomach higher pricing.

Profiling the Value Retailers
Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010
Source: WWD
Great resource for someone that wants to better understand the global value chains.

Don’t Believe the Hype! Complicit Analysts Allowing ANF to Take a Victory Lap

Only in America!  Where else can you report a +5% comp store sales result in Q2 2010 versus declines of -30% in Q2 2009, -4% in Q2 2008, and -2% in Q2 2007 and have sell-side analysts congratulating you on a great quarter?

The fact is that Mr. Jefferies has run ANF into the ground over the past 5 years.  He’s analogous to a head football coach today with a wishbone offense in an age when spread offenses are all the rage.  He did a remarkable job 10-15 years ago building a chain that siphoned sales away from the 800-lb gorilla, The Gap (GPS – $18.02).  He should be commended for providing a blueprint for how others could build aspirational brands with a focus on “affordable luxury” before anyone had even coined the term.

But, Mr. Jefferies running ANF today is like giving the keys of the car to your 85-year-old grandpa… you just don’t do it.  He’s the wrong person to run ANF at a time when Forever 21 has permanently changed the rules of the game.

Was it a great quarter?  You be the judge:

  • The company’s 3-year comp store sales run rate of approximately -30% is far worse than AEO (-20%), ARO (+26%), The Gap (-20%), JCG (+12%), and URBN (+18%).  
ANF Comp Sales Run Rate

 

  • The company’s +5% comp store sales had the benefit of a material tailwind in Q2 2010… dramatically increased inventory levels versus the prior year.  It’s probable that the lower level of ‘lost’ sales (broken sizes, out of stocks, etc.) was enough to generate +5% to +10% comp store sales versus LY just with this strategic decision alone.
  • ANF was one of the few retailers that reported merchandise margin declines in FY 2009.  Essentially, every one of the company’s peers was reporting record merchandise margins last year via an advantageous sourcing environment and well controlled inventory levels.  Not ANF.  That’s what makes the current merchandise margin declines even more concerning.  It’s possible that Forever 21 has forced ANF to permanently lower its merchandise margin levels. 

Look at the chart below to see how dramatic the company’s GPM% has fallen over the past 2+ years at a time when others are at record levels.

ANF GPM

 

  • We continue to believe Gilly Hicks was one of the worst chain launches in the last decade.  We estimate that the chain has generated only $186 sales per gross square foot for the trailing 4 quarters through Q2 2010.  Given the high quality real estate venues, $186 sales per foot is an embarrassment.  Mr. Jefferies can get excited all he wants about the large positive comps.  But, he’s not being honest about the context of how dismal the chain’s sales were a year ago. 

So, why do the sell-side analysts not hold Mr. Jefferies accountable and ask more probing questions on the quarterly conference call?  While Mr. Jefferies and most CEOs have not fully grasped this notion, the analysts NEED Mr. Jefferies.  The analysts that follow the company need Mr. Jefferies and the company to provide them ‘access’ so that they can invite buy-side clients to management meetings and road shows.  That’s how the sell-side analysts implicitly get paid, not through the ‘regurgitative’ nature of their research that adds no value, but via their ability to get buy-side investors in front of management teams.

That’s why investors are stuck with a process that allows management teams such as ANF to set the agenda for the analysts that follow the company and GET AWAY WITH IT!  Think about it.  ANF management can deliver a +5% comp in Q2 2010 and convince the sell-side analysts that they’re doing well, all while ignoring the historical context of the company’s performance. 

It’s a never ending cycle.  Analysts need access to the company’s management to implicitly get paid by the buy-side community (via commissions).  Company management teams need the analysts to ignore historical performance and to believe management’s ‘spin’ despite objective analysis that suggests otherwise.        

So, we’re left with Mr. Jefferies patting himself on the back and analysts congratulating him on yesterday’s conference call. 

The fact is that grandpa (Mr. Jefferies) is driving the car and he’s already mowed down a few pedestrians.  He’s a CEO of a fashionable teen retailer that continues to have a tough time adjusting to today’s environment that has dramatically changed with the recent success of Forever 21.  So, instead of the company’s board of directors paying Mr. Jefferies $4 million to not fly the corporate jet, someone on the Board needs to be brave enough to take the keys away from Mr. Jefferies and find a visionary merchant to take ANF to the next level.    

 

Loose Lips No More – New IR Practices at URBN?

A few months ago we posted a blog entry that discussed the loose lips IR policy at Urban Outfitters (URBN – $31.43) under the previous CFO, John Kyees (click here).

On June 1, 2010, the company announced the hiring of Oona McCullough as the company’s Director of Investor Relations.  The company’s stock price has dropped like a rock since the official departure of Mr. Kyees and the hiring of Ms. McCullough.  Is there a correlation between the sudden lack of directional sales/earnings guidance that we believe was historically provided to the traditional sell-side analysts and the drop in the company’s stock price?

URBN

 

What’s interesting is that we’ve heard through the grapevine that the company has radically changed its IR practices under the new Director of Investor Relations. 

First, the company will no longer provide a sales release prior to the release of quarterly earnings.  Also, the company will limit their quarterly conference calls to only 1 hour and allow the traditional sell-side analysts to ask follow-up questions of management for 15 minutes each following the conference call.

We’ve also been informed that the company will no longer provide “directional” sales and earnings trends intra-quarter to the traditional sell-side analysts as we believe that the company had historically done for many years via the outgoing CFO. 

So, the company appears to have gotten some religion and will now be playing by the rules. 

But, here’s where it gets interesting.  Historically, there were few surprises when the company reported quarterly sales/earnings.  Stock price volatility in response to a sales/earnings release was generally low.  That will likely not be the case today when the company reports earnings after the close.  This time, we’re hearing that the company has not tipped anyone off as to recent sales/earnings trends. 

Get your popcorn ready!  Today’s sales/earnings release at URBN will be much more interesting than at any time over the past 10 years.  Traditional sell-side analysts that follow the company will now actually have to spend time forecasting sales and earnings for the company.

Click the link for our updated EPS model and Data Packet for URBN. 

Weekly Top 5 – Five Articles Worth Reading

Tony Retailers Hope Outlets Fuel Sales
Posted: Monday, August 09, 2010
Source: WSJ

Outlets continue to attract more retailers to the venue.

Penney Weaves New Fast-Fashion Line
Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Source: WSJ

JCP management loves to talk about how fashionable they’ve become.  Yet, every month this year they disclose in their sales recording how strong the men’s apparel and shoe businesses are performing versus LY. 

Celebrity, Proprietary Brands Squeeze Independent Labels
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010
Source: WWD

Department stores have clearly gotten the message that their product needs to be differentiated versus their peers.

Sephora Bets Its Bottom Dollar on Denim
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010
Source: WWD

Could they have waited any longer to jump into the premium denim biz?  Good grief.  This would have been a great idea 2-3 years ago.

Targeting Younger Buyers, Liz Claiborne Hits Snag
Posted:  Monday August 16, 2010
Source: WSJ

Liz Claiborne partners with JCP.  Two peas in a pod.