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URBN Proxy Statement Reveals Brand CEO’s Not Created Equal
Urban Outfitters (URBN – $41.55) CEO Richard Hayne (who owns 18.8% of the total outstanding stock) received very little pay last year (only $33K). But, he made sure that his son received $415K in total compensation during FY 2012. We wonder what David Hayne does at URBN to deserve such a rich pay package.
But, here’s what is most interesting. Anthropologie CEO, David McCreight’s annual bonus “criteria” is 75% based upon “individual initiatives.” See below.
Last year, despite his brand not achieving their “plan” (see Proxy Statement below), he achieved 5 of 5 “individual initiatives” (new stores opened, capacity utilization, customer penetration, asset turnover, and hiring of personnel).
But, the annual bonus criteria for Ted Marlow, the Urban Outfitters brand CEO, only allots 14.3% to “individual initiatives.” See below.
You see where this is going? Mr. McCreight was awarded a $1.377 million annual bonus for the last fiscal year even though Anthropologie did not deliver on its “plan.” Conversely, Mr. Marlow was only awarded a $126K annual bonus for the last fiscal year (also did not achieve its “plan”…but, Urban Outfitters significantly outperformed Anthropologie during the year).
Why does Mr. McCreight have such a ridiculous bonus criteria that is primarily focused on “individual initiatives” and allows for a rich payout even when the Anthropologie brand underperforms?
The fact is that Mr. McCreight’s Anthropologie brand has greatly underperformed, not just compared to Urban Outfitters, but also compared to many of its peers. Yet, he received a handsome bonus in FY 2012. URBN’s executive compensation, at least in the case or Mr. McCreight, clearly rewards (under) performance.
Has the Recent Top-Line Success in the E-Commerce Channel Permanently Lowered GPM% Expectations?

Other than the ‘pure’ merchandise margins reported for ANF and CHS, it’s difficult to parse out the impacts of store occupancy, distribution, et al. But, if we view the Q4 2012 GPM% performance versus Q4 2009 (3-year), it becomes clear that ex-JCG and URBN’s top-line success over the past few years has come at a price… merchandise margin degradation.

We continue to believe that a material decline in the company’s GPM% rate over the past three years is likely indicative of a permanent degradation in the company’s merchandise margin rate.
We believe that it’s worth noting that both ex-JCG and URBN have enjoyed tremendous top-line success over the past few years… largely via out-sized e-commerce growth. Yet, their respective levels of profitability have come under pressure and remain so.
Let’s go one step further. The profitability decline at both ex-JCG and URBN over the past ~3 years can be traced directly to their dramatic GMP% declines. Therefore, out-sized e-commerce channel growth for specialty apparel retailers may not be all that it’s cracked-up to be.

Q1 2013 Stock Price Winners/Losers
Let’s take a look at the calendar 2012 stock price performance rankings for a variety of retail/consumer categories (click here to view PDF of complete listing by category):
Specialty Apparel Winners/Losers:
| APP CACH HOTT |
+117.0% +74.4% +43.8% |
CWTR CTRN LULU |
-34.3% -25.7% -18.2% |
Retail Department Winners/Losers:
| SHLD SKS KSS |
+20.8% +9.1% +7.3% |
JCP DDS JWN |
-23.4% -6.2% +3.2% |
Retail Specialty Hardlines Winners/Losers:
| BBY RSH HGG |
+86.9% +58.5% +57.2% |
SCSS PETM FBN |
-24.5% -9.2% -7.4% |
HIBB’s Web Strategy Being Directed by Ted Kaczynski?
Sometimes you just can’t make this stuff up.
In the company’s Q4 2012 conference call, the management team at Hibbett Sports (HIBB – $54.90) made some rather curious remarks re: the web channel. It seems that, unlike EVERY OTHER RETAILER, the company is more concerned about their DC expansion and HQ move than addressing the transformational potential of the web channel.
HIBB management has done a remarkable job over the past 4-5 years greatly improving their level of profitability. Actually, an argument could be made that no one has done a better job than the folks at HIBB. But, the lack of strategic focus on what is likely to be the future of retail (web) needs to be noted.
Here is the transcript for two separate exchanges with sell-side analysts on the company’s Q4 2012 conference call:
Terrific. Finally, if I could ask Jeff the time line for potentially discussing an e-commerce strategy.
In the second half of this year, we are coming up with a strategy. And, as we put that together, we’ll let people know, but really we have got enough on our plate between a new home office, a new distribution center going on right now, but the second half of the year, we will open, spend some time on the strategy and take a further look into it.
Okay, that’s great. And then maybe just a last thing as it relates to e-commerce and the plan there. It sounds like you’re already sort of in the phases of building out some marketing spend and allocating more dollars to social media and sort of online marketing. How do we reconcile that to maybe not still needing — having a need for an e-commerce platform? And I guess just the overall assessment of your consumer and where the trends have gone in terms of their access to the internet, where that’s going, what the pace is, and ultimately, yes, the strategy for Hibbett in terms of holding onto that consumer as they migrate along.
One of the advantages that we have, and you talk e-commerce strategy, and one of the things we talk about — 75% of our transactions are cash or debit. So very little has been spent from a credit card. So our consumers are very (inaudible) driven, which is impactful. Most of our markets, we are in small towns. Their form of entertainment is getting out into public and going to a physical store.
According to the National Sporting Goods Association, if you go back 20 years, approximately 13% to 15% of sporting goods was sold by mail order or catalog. Today, that’s almost nothing by mail order or catalog. It’s gone to nothing, but e-commerce has gone up to the 13% to 15%. So this is probably why we haven’t been impacted in Hibbett. But if it keeps growing in the future, we will have to look at it but we want to be needed. We are not too sure we are needed there today.
Suspicious Series of Events Surround Sycamore’s Potential Acquisition of HOTT

Today, Hot Topic (HOTT – $13.89) agreed to be acquired by Sycamore Partners for about $600 million.
But, check out this rather suspicious series of events:
On January 2, 2013, HOTT reported its sales results for November/December 2012. Comp sales for the two month period increased +2.2%. Ok results. In the press release, HOTT management reiterated its previous Q4 2012 EPS guidance range of $0.23 to $0.27.
So far, so good. But, here’s where it gets interesting.
In the January 2, 2013 press release, HOTT management provided “initial” FY 2013 EPS guidance of “+30% to +35% over fiscal 2012 based upon a comp sales increase in the low-single-digit range.”
Given the company still had one more month to go in FY 2012, the management team’s offering of FY 2013 EPS and sales guidance was extremely odd and atypical, not just for HOTT, but for any specialty retailer. Also, many would argue that the EPS guidance was aggressive.
Then, on January 21, 2013, the company’s long-time CFO, Jim McGinty unexpectedly resigned. A subsequent SEC 8-K filing suggested that Mr. McGinty stepped down MINUS A SEVERANCE agreement. When was the last time a CFO left without severance?
Today, HOTT agreed to be acquired by Sycamore Partners for $14.00 per share (~$600M).
This raises a couple of issues:
- Did HOTT management issue “preliminary” FY 2013 EPS guidance on January 2, 2013 to ‘artificially’ boost the share price given discussions with potential buyers? Again, it’s rare that a retailer who had not typically provided annual EPS guidance to then issue annual EPS guidance even prior to the end of the current fiscal year.
- Did outgoing CFO McGinty have no interest in participating in the shenanigans of CEO Lisa Harper and simply quit cold turkey? Did he not want to (1) provide preliminary EPS guidance for FY 2013, and/or (2) provide preliminary FY 2013 EPS guidance that was incredibly aggressive and difficult to achieve? A look at the company’s Q4 2012 EPS guidance implied a dramatic slowing of the company’s EBIT margin improvement of late.
- If HOTT management truly expected to achieve its pie-in-the-sky scenario in FY 2013 (+30% to +35% EPS growth), why would HOTT want to sell at a mere $14.00 today, especially given the potential for even greater store growth at Torrid (the emphasis on strip centers was theoretically a winning strategy)? Did sales materially soften in February 2013 and spook HOTT management?
While we don’t know the answers to the above, it’s clear that the modest +75 Bps EBIT margin expansion in Q4 2012 versus LY represented a dramatic slowing of the company’s recent profitability improvement (+142 Bps in Q3 2012, +316 Bps in Q2 2012, +352 Bps in Q1 2012).
Actually, the +75 Bps EBIT margin expansion implied for Q4 2012 was likely materially boosted by the 53rd week… suggesting that our estimated +75 Bps EBIT margin improvement may even be inflated by the extra week. Click here to see our historical HOTT Earnings Model.
Yes, we agree that CEO Harper did a great job resurrecting the company and coming up with a differentiated strategy following the dismal performance of the company’s prior CEO. Reaching the company’s recent 4% EBIT margin level (FY 2006 through FY 2008) was an outstanding achievement.
But, the atypical preliminary FY 2013 EPS guidance and subsequent cold turkey resignation of the company’s CFO suggest a more interesting story behind the scenes.
For Sycamore Partners, this acquisition has all the markings of another Gymboree (disastrous acquisition “at the top” by Bain Capital in October 2010). Ironically, Ms. Harper may know the Gymboree “sell at the top” playbook all too well having previously been the CEO of the children’s apparel retailer until July 2006.






